Restaurant Review: Marque, Surry Hills

It took me over a year to work out the discreet restaurant nestled between Bills and Billy Kwongs was Surry Hill's Marque. I had a second eureka moment, when I realised that Marque's kitchen is also responsible for Sydney's hottest toilet.

Sydney's top fine diners usually come at a hefty price, but Marque's $45 lunch special has to be the city's best value meal. Even after they've charged you for water (an environmental stance I definitely approve of) you can escape for $50.

In both my experiences at Marque I've been wowed by the outstanding cooking and taken by surprise at the presentation. Last time the borscht came served as a jelly instead of a soup. This time the squid and black rice risotto came turned on its head. The black rice was pureed and squid cut so finely that it became the 'risotto'.

The favourite dish at the table was the Sauternes custard that came served in a trademark eggshell. The smooth and soft custard was covered in a caramel sauce laced with Sauternes.

The only opinion divider was the dessert of Tzar Alexander ice cream, bergamot and peach. Individually I wasn't a fan of the begamot, ice cream or sprinkled matcha. However, ruining the presentation, and giving it a good old mix brought together a perfect balance of flavours

Marque is an easy addition to my Top Eats page. You should all save up your pennies, skip work for a couple of hours and go. It really is that good value.

Amuse bouche of mushroom duxele and beetroot

Squid, black rice and watercress

Sauternes custard

Bergamot cream, chocolate, matcha, Tzar Alexandre ice cream and peach

Marque

355 Crown St

Surry Hills

Sydney, 2010